SAN CRISTOBAL DE LAS CASAS

San Cristobal cathedral

Na Bolom Museum

Santa Lucia

View from temple of Guadelupe

I arrived here very early on Sun morning after an 11 hour trip from Oaxaca. I was glad to stretch my legs and do some walking. The streets were deserted and it was chilly. It is beautiful up here in the mountains. I waited until about 8 a.m when I found a cafe for a much needed coffee and food. At around 9 a.m I found the tourist office but realised it was closed on Sundays. I found a very helpful local travel agency and they sent me to a Posada. I was given a room at Casa de Carmelita high up on the hill. I was taken to the rooftop to admire the stunning view.
From there I could see most of the town and the mountains unfolding. After a refreshing shower and rest I wandered around the town. This is a Mayan area and the markets display beautiful and colourful wares. It is very tempting but I don't know how I would carry anything more. I think I shall just have to wait until I get to Guatemala and then maybe post things back. I feel so close to Guatemala here - I could jump on a bus and be across the border in 3 hours. But I am looking forward to exploring the Yucatan still; I will probably get a flight from Cancun to Guatemala city in mid-Jan to start my volunteer placement.
This morning I woke up after 9 a.m and finished breakfast at 11 a.m. Makes up for all htose rushed meals when I was working! I have bought my bus ticket for Palenque (leave on Wed) and meandered around the town. There are so many churches here, I suppose that is not surprising.
I think it was in 1857 that Juarez brought in a law taking property away from the churches so most of them have some public use now. I found the Na Bolom museum (Frans Bolom and his wife worked here from the 50's I think, documenting the way of life of the Maya). I will be going on one of their tours tomorrow to the local villages.
Time to wander on ....
Best wishes for the New year!

Fiesta: Los Rabanos/ Festival: The Radishes

On the 23rd Dec Oaxaca celebrates Night of the radishes. It is not certain how this tradition began but it possibly started when vegetables were sold for Christmas dinners. They began carving radishes and using them as a decorations and it evolved into a celebration. In the Zocalo/main square they have an exhibition and the best display gets a prize. They started setting up the tables around the main square in the morning and everything was beautifully laid out by evening. One cannot imagine how exquisitely the radishes are carved and the elaborate displays they make. there were nativity scenes, local scenes, flights of fancy. The square was packed and there was a carnival atmosphrere. On the bandstand a children's choir sang, followed by a band. All around was a cacophony of noise as various musicians played their instruments. There were processions of vendors selling eats, drinks, toys, balloons. It was an enjoyable event.

OAXACA DE JUAREZ

Santo Domingo, Oaxaca

Ball court, Monte Alban

Monte Alban

Monte Alban

On Sunday morning I got to the TAPO bus station in Mexico city to get a bus to Oaxaca. I couldn't get a bus until11.30. That would have to do although it mant I would arrive after sunset.
The bus, 1st class, was exteremly comfortable - reclining seats, TV, onboard toilet. With it being a 6 and 1/2 hour journey I thouhjt we would have a stop somewhere. However the driver stopped for about 10 min at one of the many tolls. The scenery was beautiful - we travelled up mountain passes and through valleys. Mostly it was exteremely dry and brown. There were cactuses galore, of all description, short ones and tall ones. We passed a number of small towns with small and densely packed housing. Now and again one saw sheep being herded. As we arrived in Oaxaca, on the outskirts were industrial areas and poor housing. I was surprised at how big the town (or city) is. The bus station was modern and had a tourist info stall. here I was provided with a map and names of hotels. I discovered I needed to buy a telephone card and then I could phone and book a hotel. I chose Posada del Cid, a 3 star hotel. I caught a taxi only to discover later that it was about a 5 min walk from the bus station. Itis a lovely little place - clean, bathroom en suite. It is a little further out from the Zocalo or main square than most of the hotels but it is quiter here, less crowded. Altho the traffic is nowhere near as bad as mexico city, there is still a lot. My first day here I spent wondering around the Zocalo and town. At the Zocalo is a large cathedral and a Government Palace. The Zocalo is decorated for Christmas and there is a carnival atmosphere. I have seen more foreign tourists here than in Mexico city but predominantly there are more mexican tourists/holiday makers.
There are also more indigent people here and one is more aware of poverty. There are beggars and there are children selling things. I did read that there is a loy of unemployment and a lot of teenagers leave school before getting a qualification; there are a lot of children that work.
I was speaking to a local teacher and he told me that although medical consultations are free, patients must pay for medication and other treatments. I wish more people would realise what a fantastic institution the NHS is and what a privilege it is to have it.
Yesterday I went to Monte Alban which was a city here during more or less the same time as teotihuacan ( first few centuries AD).. I caught a tourist bus up into the mountains along a steep and narrow road. It was peaceful walking around Monte Alban and I spent about 2 and a 1/2 hours just taking it all in. The sun was pretty hot and this is winter! I am not sure if temples here are as high as the pyramids in teotihuacan but one has a better sense here of a city with all the different buildings - temples, residences, a ball court and a massive central plaza.
I returned back to my hotel exhausted.
I am sorry I haven't been able to upload any pics. In lieu of that I will find you some links.
On sat 26 Dec I am catching a bus to San Cristobal - this will be a ten hour journey thru mountains.
Happy Christmas to all my friends and family.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Oaxaca_de_Juarez
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Monte_Alban

MEXICO DISTRITO FEDERAL/ Mexico city

Museum of national anthropology

Cathedral, M.C

Casa Azul, house of frida Kahlo

Below is temple of moon, teotihuacan

Temple of sun

Temple of sun

I still can´t believe I am here! I am ahalf a aworld away yet arrived here without any hassles. I am staying at a beautiful hotel on the Paseo de Reforma. I am within easy walking distance of the Zocalo and historic centre.
The architecture here is fascinating: old-fashioned ornate buildings surrounded by modern steel and glass structures. The traffic here is ceaseless and there are lots of people. I feel safe here (I know one should be cautious in any city) and it hasbeen easy to get around. On my first day I familiarised myself with the historic centre. There are pedestrianised areas there. It is nearly Christmas but it is very strange to see a Christmas wonderland taking up the square - there is an ice-rink, snow slope and lots of Christmas trees and dazzling decorations on the surrounding buildings.
At the first opportunity I arranged to go on a trip to Teotihuacan or Las Piramides (The Pyramids). I went on a small bus with a Venezuelan couple and a Mexican couple who live in germany. Our young tour guide was helpful and kept us smiling. My Spanish did improve during the day. I wanted to go staright to the Pyramids but we had a few stops along the way. We saw Tlateloc or Plaza de las tres Culturas7Plaza of the 3 cultures. There are ruins here of one of the 1st cities in Mexico city and built next toit/on it a 16th cent san Franciscan convent (the 3rd cuklture being present day buildings). We went on th Bsilica of Guadeloupe - the original cathedral and the modern day one. It was here that the Virgin of Guadeloupe appeared to san Juan Diego (the first indigenous convert) and requested that a church be built. It is an importnat place of pilgrimage and there were people from all walk so life visiting, praying, leaving flowers and devotions. Our next 2 stops were shops were we waited around far too long. By late afternoon we reached the Pyramids. The advantage was that it was cool and not crowded. It is like being in a dream when you visit there. Words can´t describe the awe of touching the pyramids and climbing to the top. I did climb to the top of the Templo del Sol/Temple of the Sun, which is very steep. You can look over the city and it is also starnge to look down on the modern towns that have sprung up around. There are mountains in all directions. I walked down the Avenue of the Dead wondering how those who did this centuries ago felt. On the Templo dw la Luna/Temple of the moon you can only climb up to the 1sdt level. from here you get an amzing view of the lay out of the city and the Avenue of the dead/Calle de los Muertos. The visit felt all too short but so worthwhile. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Teotihuacan
Anorther of my must sees was Casa Azul (Blue House) or Museum of frida Kahlo. I got there on the underground which was surprisingly easy to use and no more crowded than the london metro. Although I had seen her paintings in London, nothing beats the experience of seeing her work in her very own house. There were drawings and portraits, icluding some unfinished ones. You could feel her personality, her presence. The living areas were fascinating: the beds,the evry day items.The long room where she did her oainting I found most interesting.It was poignant to see an ancient wheel chair there. One had a sense of her suffering - mental and physical. It seems she lived and loved intensely.
Yesterday I jumped on a tourist bus, one of those open-topped double decker buses. I enjoyed seeing all the monumemnts at the round-abouts/glorietas on the Paseo before arriving at the Museum of national Anthropology . This is a magnificent building set in the gardens of Chapultepec. It is laid out around a vast rectangular courtyard. There are several, massive halls covering the different areas/periods of mexico´s history. The halls are huge and light with plenty of space to marvel at the exhibits. I visited the hall of Teotihuacan and this explains the culture around the Pyrmamids. I spent most of my time in and was truly awe struck by the Hall of Mexica ( Aztecs). There are magnificent statues of gods and structures from buildings. There were also huge paintings and models of Tenochtitlan: you could imagine yourself being there all those centuries ago. If you only have time to visit one place in Mexico city, this would be it!
It was tiring but before I left I had a quick walk around the hall of the Maya. I would probably appreciate this more after a visit to the Yucatan and Guatemala but it was good to have a glimpse. There were some beautiful stelae - tall stones with hieroglyphics and carvings. Ther were some beautifully carved figures, so exquisite they could have been done yesterday.
Finally I tore myself away from the museum and headed back for a cup of tea - bottled, cold, lemon tea.
Enough, I must get out today and tomorrow I head for Oaxaca.