Volcan Pacaya

This is an active volcano some 2hours drive from Antigua. I joined a group ( multinational) and we went by shuttle. We left Antigua at 2 p.m. At the park there are horse available to take you up most of the way to the viewing point. The enterprising youngsters sell walking sticks to help you get up. At 1st the incline didn't seem too bad, along a concrete path that went up at a moderate incline. But then it began to change, getting steeper as we went. We reached the zone where the lava flow and ash had been. It looks as desolate as a south african mine dump! It is pretty difficult walking up the sand and ash. It is like climbing a vertical beach - you have to dig in with your heels and push with your calves (yes they did ache at bedtime). After this we reached the rocky zone. As you get closer to thelava area the rocks get warmer - not uncomfortable. The local dogs who did the climb enjoyed lying on thwarm rocks. In this area the rocks are razor sharp and you have to concentrate, keep your balance and not put out a hand to steady yourself. When we reched the lookout point it was difficult to see the lava flow in the distance. Several groups converged at once and it was getting risky as there was one track with people trying to go in both directions.
Howvere our guide took us to a slightly lower point away from the crowd and we were able to see the red track of lava. We descended at night -looking like dwarves returning from the mine with our head torches. It looked more impressive at night when we looked back and saw the lava flow and a rosey glow to the sky. An interesting experience.... but mabe thats enough volcano climbing for me.

EDUCATION FOR THE CHILDREN FOUNDATION

Hi all you guys and gals out there in the U.K (El Reino Unido).
The school I am volunteering at is run by a U.K charity/foundation. It is such a worthwhile project.
The children here are so eager to learn and for them, like us, it is a way forward.
Please have a look at their link and see if you can support them in any way. Even just reading their info and seeing something of what life here can be like.
www.eftc.org.uk

ANTIGUA, GUATEMALA

It's so great to be here. I flew from Cancun to flores, Guatemala and then on to Guate City. The view from the plane was beautiful: first the azure blue coastline of the caribbean (the Yucatan) then over the jungle of northern Guatemala.As we approached flores, there was a beautiful, large lake: Lago Peten Itza. In the middle was a compact village, Flores, linked by a causeway to the land and the nearby town of Santa Elena. I was longing to get off the plane and visit tikal and then go thru the jungle to el mirador, but all in good time... we flew on to Guatemala City, flying over mountains with the occasional road threading its way thru the mountains. When we landed in Guate City it felt like we were going to land in the city itself! The airport is virtually surrounded by buildings. I was met and taken to Antigua which is amazing. I havent had an opportunity yet to take photos but it is incredible to wake up ans ee the volcano to the south. Antigua is small and picturesque. Its ben a lot to take in: meeting the family I am living with, meeting people at the spanish school (organisers of my stay and volunteering= and meeting everyone at my school. I am having to get used to a new routine: waking up at 6.30, breakfast at 7 , leave the house at 7.30. I walk to the market place where i catch a bus to the nearby suburb. I am speaking spanish most of the time and sometimes my brain just switches off and I dont know what language I am speaking - bever mind what tense or gender! I have been made to feel most welcome here.
It is a privilege to be here and meeting all these people.
Hopefully I'll get my camera out and show you what it looks like.
Can you believe that Jan is going so quickly, I hope you are all having a good start to 2010.

CANCUN AT LAST!

I arrived here the 10th jan looking forward to a good rest! the weather has changed and it is windy and cool. no matter, it is wonderful to be on the beach. i get up earlyish and after breakfast sit like a lizard in a sunny, protected spot. Then I have a late lunch and a siesta. this afternoon I caught a bus (7 pesos!) to the hotel zone. i have looked around the shops and found an internet place. The hotels here are unreal - great big palaces. My hotel is modest by comparison and is closer towards Cancun town. I am happy with the beach restaurants and little shops where you can buy water and cooldrinks. It is great chilling out. next week it's back to school! I arrive in Guatemala the 18th jan. I'll have to get used to homework.

CHICHEN ITZA

The day I went it was cool and with light rain at times; we needed a day like that and it was great for walking about this marvellous city. I went on a guided tour and it took us 2 hours to get there from merida. we went the slow route passing thru some lovely villages. One of them was Tixkokob, where most of the inhabitants make hammocks. each little town has a square with church and town hall/offices and maybe a sportsfield(baseball court). One of the towns we stopped at was Izamal, a colonial town visited by the pope in 93. It is pretty with all its buildings yellow. the church, st padua, is built on a mayan temple and from within the church grounds/ courtyard you can see a large pyramid. apparently the pope asked the indigenous people forgiveness for what the church had done.probably referring to the conquest and
spanish inquisition. The church also destroyed a lot of the written works of the maya. Some codices did survive and found in museums here and abroad.Entering chichen Itza, the 1st building you see is the Castle/El Castillo, a massive temple/pyramid with plumed serpents at the bases. We walked down the "sacbe" or white road to the cenote or well that the city used. a cenote is formed when the limestone collapses into a subterranean river. this one was sacred and the maya threw offerings into it. A lot of these were retrieved and are in the museum in Merida; some of them are delicately carved jade ornaments and objects. We visited the "new " chichen itza: this part of the city is influenced by the Toltecs. The architectural style is differnt to the earlier mayan buildings. significantly a new god was introduced: Quetzalcoatl or Kukulcan. Even the rules of the ball game changed: racquets were introduced and the ring was placed higher.
In old Chichen Itza is the snail/El Caracol - because of its shape, this was the Observatory.
We spent 3 hours visiting here but it was a whistle stop tour.
Following lunch we visited a nearby beautiful cenote. we descended via a staircase to the ater level and looking above you could see tree roots dangling down in fronds. the water was alovely blue-green and people were diving in and swimming.

UXMAL RUINS, CAMPECHE

Kabah in itself was lovely but it also served as a prelude to Uxmal. Here at Uxmal we would see more chiltuns and more of Chac. The name Uxmal roughly translates as "Three times occupied": Ux = 3 and mal = repeat (occupied). There are 3 temples of different ages on this site. We entered near "The Magician's temple" or Pyramid of the Sorcerer. It contains another 2 temples within. We walked through to the Quadrangle of the nuns or as Ivan called it " The Priests' Convention centre " (since there were no nuns in those days). On the building we examined the double-headed serpent with its mouth open, showing the white man inside. (was this an albino, a prophet/shaman ?). We looked at the ball court which had an intact ring. Allegedly the winner was sacrificed, this was an honour! Next was The temple of the turtles, so called because of the turtles carved on the facade. Further on, The House of the Governors was beautifully decorated with recurring motifs of Chac and other patterns (X's). The most spectacular of all is the temple of the Macaws. trhis is exceptionally steep but well worth the climb as it gives you a bird's eye view of Uxmal, breath taking.

KABAH RUINS, CAMPECHE

Today I went on an organised tour to visit Kabah and Uxmal. Kabah is a small complex. Our guide Ivan explained to us the need to obtain water and how they built these surface cisterns,called chultuns. Rain and of course, the rain god, Chac were important. Kabah is a wonderful place to see the "frescoes" of the face of Chac - suddenly I could make out his face and in some parts his nose, a long, curling trunk , was intact.
This was a delightful place to visit, with mainly the swallows for company.

MERIDA, YUCATAN

I got here from Campeche on a comfortable 2 and a 1/2 hour bus drive. I hadn't realised Merida was so big - about 1 million inhabitants. I am staying at a comfortable hotel, The Flamingo. On my 1st day I walked around just enjoying the city centre. There is an imposing cathedral on the square, allegedly the 1st cathedral to be built in the Americas. I came across some fascinating and colourful jaguar sculptures outside an art museum. It is fun just being in the Zocalo and watching people enjoying themselves. There is a lot to see and i must go to the museum of Anthropology and walk along the beautiful Paseo Montejo.

Celebration of Three Kings/Los Tres Reyes

This is a festival that was being celebrated in Campeche on the 5th January. In the morning it looked like it was going to be one big street party. Some of the streets around the square had been closed off. Behind the town Hall were dozens of market stalls. They were selling everything from kids' toys to Tshirts and of course, food and drink. Not far from my hotel they had blocked off the street and were setting up a disco - no sleep tonight then! In the evening the town was packed. People were enjoying themselves and music was in the air. The following day it appeared the town was still celebrating. When I arrived in Merida, I saw they were preparing for a party in the square. there was alarge stage in one corner and the band were practicing. But this was not a continuation of 3 Kings, it was a preparation to celebrate 468 years of the inauguration of Merida. Mexico certainly knows how to deliver a good party. the great thing about it is that people of all ages can come out and enjoy themselves.

EDZNA RUINS, CAMPECHE

I arranged with a local travel agency to visit Edzna, some 50 km from campeche. A taxi driver took 2 french women and myself. We were dropped off at the ruins where we could wander about and explore for 2 hours.Edzna was founded in about 600 B.C, was discovered in 1907 and excavations began in 1928. It's name is derived from Itzna or house of the itznaes, a family ruling from 800-1000 A.D.It's a small city and there weren't many vistors. A wide sandy path led through thick vegetation bringing you into the clearing where the city is. The 1st buildings i saw were a cluster of small buildings around the patio of the Ambassadors. One of the buildings had an archway through which you could walk (hunched over) bringing you into the great Acropolis. This was alarge central square with on one side (the west) a long, tiered building, Nohochna or the large house. I climbed this to admire the view. i am getting fitter and fitter on this trip as i cannot resist climbing up temples and pyramids! Sometimes it is a relief when you are not allowed to climb the building. I sat in the sun, basking in thre atmosphere, thinking I was so lucky to be here. It was so worthwhile coming to Campeche for this. I walked slowly around the square then entered the complex opposite Nohochna. I was suprised to see another series of buildings. facing me was an elegant, tall building, "Five storeys" or Cinco pisos. It has a height of about 31 m. To the left of it was The house of the Moon on which I sat to admire this area. To the left of "Five Storeys" is the temple of the Moon. leaving this square took me into the little Acropolis which is the oldest part. Over here you can find temple of the masks: Sunrise and Sunset. This was a peaceful, unrushed visit.
Later on I was talking to the proprietor of the hotel; he told me about Calakmul which is one of the largest cities and should really be seen.

VILLAHERMOSA, Tabasco, oil capital AND CAMPECHE,YUCATAN PENINSULA

I thouht I would have difficulty getting to palenque and finding accom there. Not so but leaving Palenque was another story - no bus until at least 4th. Instead got a bus to villahermosa which wouls give me more options. Joutmry was only 2 hours on a good road. The vegetation changed from dense forest around palenque to grassy with trees. There wee cattle grazing and egrets alongside them. There were areas of werland with herons. On the way there was a government stop: the movement of eggs, fuit and dairy into the yucatan is restricted. Also along the way we were stopped by armed polic which is not uncommon. There were also army posts along the way. You get used to seeing this and it is to stop dug trafficking. Coming into Villahermosa we crossed the Grijalava, a large, brown river, apparently navigable to the sea.Villahemosa appeared a large, modern city. The area around the bus stop is rundown. I took a raxi into the centre as i had no map o info other than a rough idea of finding hotels on Calle (street) Madero.
I looked at some expensive ones and just nearby found a bargain. I wont say the name because it was rather dilapidated (think Point Rd Durban/Hillbow JHB or wrong side of tracks, Middlesbrough). Anyway it was sufficient for one night and I did have my own bathroom (ignored cobwebs in the shower).
On Sunday I was on my way to Campeche. This should have been a 5 and a 1/2 hr trip but turned into 8 hrs! It was a county service and stopped at every village and bustops at crossroads on the middle of nowhere. All this without getting off the bus for a toilet stop or more drinks - I did worry about dehydration/DVT but I am OK. At least I had a seat, others were standing.I did enjoy seeing the countryside change: more grassland and trees with lots of cattle herds, wetlands and then coming into the Yucatan, it became flatter and more jungley.
I have found a quiet hotel near the centre of Canpeche. this is a modest walled city that had to defend itself aginst the pirates (ingleses sin duda). There are fortified areas, a gate to the sea and one to the land. I took a "trolley ride" around the ciy and admired the colourful houses with heavy wooden dots and iron grilles and if coutse, the many churches. The church of San Ramon has a black Christ (statue made from African ebony). (am stuggling to type to night as keyboard has invisible characters!). Tomorrow I want to visit Ednza, Mayan ruins about an hout fom here.
Calakmul is too far - about 350 kn away (best to stay ar Escarga).
Wed I leave for merida. I have boked my flite to Guatemala city- 18 Jan, from Cancun.

Day at Palenque Ruins

It was a 15 min bus ride from Palenque town to the ruins. We were soon in the countryside: a flat valley with thick vegetation, tall trees, tropical looking plants.As you entered the gates into the ruins, the jungle became more apparent. You walk through tall trees and suddenly you catch a glimpse of the ruins. you emerge into sunlight and they come into view. They are spectacular; I feel like indiana Jones on a mission to (re)discover the ruined cities of the Americas! There is a beauty and a splendour about the place.The ruins are made all the more striking by their setting in the jungle. Slowly I wandered about the place, drinking in the atmosphere, admiring the city. The temple of inscriptions is very striking and is significant. There are 9 tiers to the pyramid representing the 9 battles to be fought before lord Pakal can emerge from the underworld. Opposite this is the palace complex and you can walk about the ruined rooms. In the centre were wall carvings of war captives. Elsewhere one could see carvings of the maya representing episodes of their lives/history.

PALENQUE RUINS

Temple of inscriptions

Temple of foliated cross

Temple of inscriptions

Temple of sun

Temple of cross

PALENQUE

It's New years Day and I am sitting in a hot internet cafe.
I had a long bus journey here from San cristobal. we passed through heavily forested mountains. The bus trip was slow and we went up and down steep roads. Palenque is a small place and it is hot and steamy. I visited the ruins here yesterday and they were spectacular!
I am coming to the end of my time in the internet cafe - have been answering emails- and the connections are slow.
I will update you later on The Ruins.
Happy New year to all of you/ feliz y Prospero Ano.

San Cristobal

Unfortunately the trip to the villages didn´'t take place. instead i spent the day wandering around S.C and admiring the myriad churches. each barrio or area has its own church. I visited the temple of Guadelupe which is high on the hilltop to the east. From here was a good view of the city - it's in a valley surrounded by mountains. The road leading down, which becomes Real de Guadelup was decorated with bunting in green, white and red. A lot of the churches are festooned in ribbons/bunting and the main streets have Christmas lights. Nativity scenes abound and vary in size and complexity. There are lots of tourists here and the main area,below the square, is alwys buzzing with activity. One of the main markets is in front of Santo Domingo church. I visted the museum here which used to be a San Franciscan monastery. Most of the info here was about the conquest and colonial times - how san cristobal was established - with only a few references to pre-colombic history. They did have a few mayan artefacts.
You probably know that San Cristobal is home to the Zapatistas. I did admire the Zapatista dolls in the market but couldn't bring myself to buy a doll with a gun!
I have had an interesting stay here and have enjoyed learning about San Cristobal and chiapas.
http://www.tripadvisor.com/LocationPhotos-g150802-w3-San_Cristobal_de_las_Casas_Central_Mexico_and_Gulf_Coast.html
Will get a DVD made soon and put up my photos!