COBAN, SEMUC CHAMPEY, LANQUIN

Another weekend adventure. This time the transport went smoothly and the mini van was comfortable (no flat tires etc). I left on Fri afternoon with a group from my Spanish school. We arrived a our hotel near the town of Coban (north west of guatemala, up in the mountains) after 8 p.m. We drove up a dirt road to our hotel. On arriving we were led off to our respective rooms - this involved walking up the hillside, on stoney steps, in the dark and the mist. we did have torches but hadnt taken them out of our bags yet! Seven of us slept in a large dorm room. I didnt get much sleep (bed near the bathroom) and it was cold so slept in the foetal position. We were up at 5.30 and it was still dark. We could make out the valley below but the cloud/mist hanging over it resembled a lake. As it became light we were able to see the mountains in the distance - a high mountain range that runs the length of Guatemala. In this region there are cloud forests. We had breakfast at 8.30 then travelled on to our hotel in Lanquin. The hotel looked pretty -a large wooden building set in gardens. Our group were shown to the rooms downstairs and these resembled stables. However they were quite comfortable. we had ten minutes to change into swimming costumes and head for the caves near Semuc Champey. At Semuc Champey the river disappears underground and runs through a series of caves; it emerges and then forms a series of pools which are ideal for swimming. At the cave entrance we had a guide leading us and one bringing up the rear. We had a candle in one hand and the other free to hold onto rocks or aid our swimming. Initially you wade through the water and in parts you have to swim. There were areas where we had to clamber up and down rocky areas using ladders. Without our candles, it was pitchdark. It was great fun and we spent about 2 hours doing this. After lunch we walked in the heat of the day to a viewing point on the cliffs above. The turquoise pools looked so inviting and we wasted no time in getting down and going swimming.

MACAW MOUNTAIN BIRD RESERVE

On Sunday morning I visited the bird park set amongst trees alongside the river. It is a reserve for rescued birds such as macaws, parrots, toucans, owls and hawks. A lot of the birds were pets which were maltreated or whose owners could no longer keep them;some of them were injured birds;some macaws had developed stress and had pulled out their feathers. In this calm and protected environment and a varied diet they are thriving.Juan, the guide took us around explaining the different species we saw. It was a restful morning and well worth a visit. It would be worth spending most of the day there. They have a restaurant and also a swimming area in the river.

COPAN RUINS, HONDURAS

I visted Copan Ruins for the weekend. It is quite a challenge going just for the weekend, especially when your transport breaks down and it takes hours to get there. But as they say "eso es la vida" or that's life. Two hours away from Copan our mini-bus needed repairs. Somehow we transferred to a large tour bus (standing room only) which took us to the large town of Chiquimula (the closest big town to Copan). We then transferred to a mini-van which stopped every where on the way to the border picking up and dropping off people and their possessions, including a "cheeping" box (chickens no doubt). Most of the men were wearing sombreros and jeans. La frontera/border was a relaxed affair. There were a few small offices opening onto a verandah. At the Guatemalan window, you paid 25 or however many Quetzals and if you are returning within 72 hours you get a piece of paper (?visa) for that period. At the Honduras window you pay U.S 3 dollars. Then we got onot a local mini bus and headed into town. I just had enough time to eat a quick lunch before the tuk-tuk arrived at the hotel to take me and others to Las Ruinas/The Ruins. A tuk-tuk is a 3-wheeled vehicle with a canopy and an engine like a sewing machine (or moped); the driver sits in front and it can take 3 passengers. Lisa, Mary and I were transported to the ruins quite comfortably. Here we met our guide Saul who was entertaining and informative. he shared his love of Mayan history and of Copan especially, with us. I think it was really helpful having a guide as it brought the place to life. Copan was tranquil (afternoon) with not many visitors and thankfully vendors do not come inside. We visited the Acropolis which is overlooked by a wind god resembling neptune. Above him were sculptures of conches. Allegedly the Maya flooded the plaza in summer and it resembled a lake with the surrounding buildings resembling a mountain and volcano. We looked at the view of the Royal residences which have been excavated recently. There are large areas of the site still waiting to be excavated. Some of the mounds of earth and trees in and between the buildings remain, giving it that feeling to the traveller of having stumbled upon a lost city. We entered the court of the Jaguars. It is overlooked by a pair of dancing jaguars and legend has it that real jaguars protected the city. Walking on, and from a height, we looked down at the main plaza which contained the hieroglyphic staircase. This is a magnificent staircase of a temple and it contains (I think) a record of the rulers of Copan. Also in the main plaza were some exquisitely carved stelae showing past rulers. Some of these are original, others are replicas of those in museums.
At 5 p.m the area was bathed in gentle sunlight. as we left the ruins we admired the several scarlet macaws that have taken up residence there (normally live in the jungles of the Mosquito coast, Honduras and elsewhere in central and south america).

LAKE ATITLAN AND PANAJACHEL

On Saturday morning I caught a shuttle or minibus to Panajachel on the banks of lake Atitlan.
It was a journey of at least 3 hours winding up and down through the mountains. Panajachel is a big town on the shores of the lake. The main street leading down to the lake is lined with market stalls and restaurants. If I thought that people were eager to sell their wares in Cancun, they were even more eager here. It was difficult to look at the tempting and colourful wares without being implored to buy something. And in addition there were many mobile vendors just as eager to make a sale. Alot of the schoolkids try to supplement the family income by selling wares on the weekend. Sadly Guatemala has been hard hit by the downturn in the economy and life is more difficult in the rural areas.
Nonthe less, local people are welcoming and appreciative of tourists visiting the area. I stayed at a beautiful hotel, "Los jardines del lago" overlooking the lake. it was set a few blocks away from the main street and was peaceful. They have a beautiful garden overlooking the lake. When I arrived I was grateful to sit in the shade of the large avocado tree waiting for my room. It was so lovely there, I could have sat in the garden all weeekend. But there were other things to see and do and so little time! I set off looking for lunch and met pedro, a local guide. Capitan pedro and his 1st mate took me on " Betty" for a boat trip to santa catalina. This is a small village on the lake. here the local women make beautiful textiles for table cloths, scarves , belts and more. I had a very satisfying lunch -lots of fresh vegetables, lots of avocado, rice and a tastey spiney fish. I enjoyed the view overlooking the lake. By this time the clouds had veiled the volcanoes and i would have to wait for morning to see them. The lake was being stirred up by wind. After lunch Pedro took me for a tour of the village: pretty white church, a small school and several shops selling local wares.
On Sunday I woke reasonable early and enjoyed the clear view of the volcanoes. At this time of the morning the lake is placid. After a good breakfast I went off to meet pedro to go kayaking/ canoeing. By 10 a.m the sun was beating down but it felt cool on the water. I enjoyed paddling along the shore and admiring the villas and hotels as well as the volcanoes on the far side of the lake. An hour of paddling was sufficient for me and my wrists still feel a little tired!
If you go to panachel, look out for pedro near the post office or the street leading to the lake. he can speak some English and is keen to learn more. On the shore you can rent your kayak from Julio.
http://www.tripadvisor.com/Tourism-g292008-Panajachel_Lake_Atitlan_Western_Highlands-Vacations.html