I got a ferry here from San Jorge on the mainland. The lake was choppey - stirred up by wind. Fortunately I didn't feel seasick. The crossing took about an hour to Moyogalpa. This is a small town and I found good accom here. My hotel room feels so luxurious -it's great to have my own bathroom again.
Yesterday I walked around the town and tried to keep cool. I watched a beautiful sunset across the water.
Today I took a local bus to Altagracia, another town. I discovered an interesting museum with petroglyphs (stones with carvings), stone statues and ceramics/pottery from the Chorotegas ( B.C). I also saw some good statues in the churchyard : man with jaguar headdress, man with eagle headdress and man with owl headdress. it is believed the Chorotega moved south from Mexico.
I spent the afternoon at a beach on Charco Verde. There was a nearby lagoon with great white herons.
I had a swim in the Lake (being mindful of caimans which can be found here. As well as fresh water sharks!).
I prefer swimming in the sea to lakes, somehow I feel more comfortable in the sea.
Ometepe has 2 volcanoes, one of which, Concepcion is still active.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ometepe
Wednesday, 24 March 2010
Sunday, 21 March 2010
Managua and Granada, NICARAGUA
I took the Tica bus and we crossed from El Sal into Honduras and 2-3 hours later from Honduras into Nicarague. The border crossings were pleasant and hassle free. It was great viewing the countryside from the bus. I saw a late sunrise illuminating the volcanoes of el sal. The country was green and mountainous. Then into Honduras - more mountains but the countryside looked dry. Entering Nicaragua is a vista of mountains and green, then you descend into a green valley. Approaching Managua you encounter modern industries - we passed a fancy hotel and casino, small eateries and cheap shops, a site with shacks and tented dwellings and not long after, the barrio where the Tica bus station is. I found a place nearby to stay. It was behind a locked gate and high walls. It was pleasant enough with aircon and T.V. I had a long undisturebed sleep.
Up early the next day and got a taxi to the bus staion for Granada. I got the local bus to Granada - it was comfortable and the trip toook about an hour and ahalf. I was glad to leave the big city behind me.
Granada is a beautiful colonial city at tyhe northern end of lake Nicaragua. It has a shabby splendour. Like its colonial Spanish sisters, it has a central park with a striking cathedral, this one has an exterior of yellow and inside is cool and light with yellow and blue. The city has a number of churches, some cared for, others not. Walking the streets are some lovely old buildings. It is very hot and sticky here, yesterday was about 37 deg. When you walk you have to seek out the shade on the pavements and attempt to go from one shadow of a tree to another... you have to go at a slow pace to conserve energy...
I walked down to the Lake in the heat of the afternoon but was rewarded with acool breeze. Local families were picnicking, swimming and resting in hammocks.
For the most part of the day it is wise to rest in the shade of indoors, preferably with a fan and an ice-cold drink.
Next stop, Isla Ometepe.
Thursday, 18 March 2010
El Zonte and San Salvador, EL SALVADOR
It was hard to take myself away but I needed to move on to San Salvador for connections south. I paid a local man for transport in his pick up truck to the city. It was a pleasant drive of one and a half hours. I arrived at Hotel San Carlos which has a Tica bus terminal and armed guard. It was handy to stay here as I had to check in for tyhe bus at 04.10 altho it left at 5 as scheduled. During the day I wondered around the historic centre visiting the cathedral and the modernsitic El Rosario. I also visited the National Libraray where the attendants were helpful and spoke some English. I read/ looked at a photo-journal of the civil war (1979-1992) but didn´t finsish as the Lib closed at 4 p.m. I whiled away some time having coffee and reading at Mister Donut.
Watched some T.V before trying to sleep early.
Friday, 12 March 2010
EL MIRADOR: JUNGLE TREK
El Mirador is one of the largest Mayan cities and lies deep in the jungle, in the Biosphere Maya, a protected area.The area consists of suntropical forest. They have been excavating here for about 30 years and since 2003, Dr Richard Hansen and his team have been working It is a huge city and only some of the structures have been uncovered. Our group consisted of 3 people and our guide. We took 2 horses which carried
water, food, tent etc. This time of year is good to go as it is dry. It was extremely hot, the last 2 days reaching 38 deg centigrade. Although I toook mosquito repellent and anti-malarials, I didn't see mosquitoes, it's too dry for them. However I did get bitten by other insects. Look out for tiny red ticks (like pinheads) in the grass. Our trip was 6 days ans we took the same route there and back. (You can choose to do a route that includes Nakbe´ and do a loop; depends on the availability of water). The 1st say was more than 5 hrs from La Carmelita to El Tintal. The 2nd day was 6 hrs to El Mirador. You walk on a level gradient and the path is fairly wide; rocks and tree roots may take you by surprise, esp when you are tired and lose concentration. Walking in the early morning is a pleasure - parrots and toucans call out from the tree tops. Birdlovers will have a great time catching glimpses of different species or identifying the myriad different calls. Snall animals can be seen: fox, coati, squirrels, deer. We saw a tapir lying on the path - probably thirsty and she was injured. The occasional snake can be seen but generally they are elusive. Our guide was full of anecdotes about the jungle. he is at home in this environment and loves the place. He also loved pointing out the old Mayan roads, small structures alomgside the path, tool-like stones and pieces of ceramics. El Mirador is like stepping back in time. If ever you have imagined what it was like when the early explorers came upon the Mayan ruins and lost cities, this is the place for you. There are so many structures to see at El Mirador. One of my favourite sites was the El Jaguar Temple with its external mask of the jaguar and jaguar paw. Inside archaeologists have discovered a painted mask of a different jaguar from a different time and an earlier temple. The other site I liked was the aqueduct near the Gran Acropolis showing an exquisite frieze from the Popol Vuh, the central figure being Junah Pu. If you love climbing pyramids - sunrise, sunset, day time - for the sheeer joy of it,then this is paradise.
We had 2 days to explore El Mirador and even this felt like a glimpse.
On our return journey we visited El Tintal. This is a big complex with interesting buildings but I felt too tired to do it justice. I did climb one of the larger pyramids, La Parmita. Camping out and nights in the jungle are memorable experiences. The absolute tranquillity of the jungle and the canopy of stars are treasures in them selves.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/El_Mirador
water, food, tent etc. This time of year is good to go as it is dry. It was extremely hot, the last 2 days reaching 38 deg centigrade. Although I toook mosquito repellent and anti-malarials, I didn't see mosquitoes, it's too dry for them. However I did get bitten by other insects. Look out for tiny red ticks (like pinheads) in the grass. Our trip was 6 days ans we took the same route there and back. (You can choose to do a route that includes Nakbe´ and do a loop; depends on the availability of water). The 1st say was more than 5 hrs from La Carmelita to El Tintal. The 2nd day was 6 hrs to El Mirador. You walk on a level gradient and the path is fairly wide; rocks and tree roots may take you by surprise, esp when you are tired and lose concentration. Walking in the early morning is a pleasure - parrots and toucans call out from the tree tops. Birdlovers will have a great time catching glimpses of different species or identifying the myriad different calls. Snall animals can be seen: fox, coati, squirrels, deer. We saw a tapir lying on the path - probably thirsty and she was injured. The occasional snake can be seen but generally they are elusive. Our guide was full of anecdotes about the jungle. he is at home in this environment and loves the place. He also loved pointing out the old Mayan roads, small structures alomgside the path, tool-like stones and pieces of ceramics. El Mirador is like stepping back in time. If ever you have imagined what it was like when the early explorers came upon the Mayan ruins and lost cities, this is the place for you. There are so many structures to see at El Mirador. One of my favourite sites was the El Jaguar Temple with its external mask of the jaguar and jaguar paw. Inside archaeologists have discovered a painted mask of a different jaguar from a different time and an earlier temple. The other site I liked was the aqueduct near the Gran Acropolis showing an exquisite frieze from the Popol Vuh, the central figure being Junah Pu. If you love climbing pyramids - sunrise, sunset, day time - for the sheeer joy of it,then this is paradise.
We had 2 days to explore El Mirador and even this felt like a glimpse.
On our return journey we visited El Tintal. This is a big complex with interesting buildings but I felt too tired to do it justice. I did climb one of the larger pyramids, La Parmita. Camping out and nights in the jungle are memorable experiences. The absolute tranquillity of the jungle and the canopy of stars are treasures in them selves.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/El_Mirador
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)