KABAH RUINS, CAMPECHE

Today I went on an organised tour to visit Kabah and Uxmal. Kabah is a small complex. Our guide Ivan explained to us the need to obtain water and how they built these surface cisterns,called chultuns. Rain and of course, the rain god, Chac were important. Kabah is a wonderful place to see the "frescoes" of the face of Chac - suddenly I could make out his face and in some parts his nose, a long, curling trunk , was intact.
This was a delightful place to visit, with mainly the swallows for company.

MERIDA, YUCATAN

I got here from Campeche on a comfortable 2 and a 1/2 hour bus drive. I hadn't realised Merida was so big - about 1 million inhabitants. I am staying at a comfortable hotel, The Flamingo. On my 1st day I walked around just enjoying the city centre. There is an imposing cathedral on the square, allegedly the 1st cathedral to be built in the Americas. I came across some fascinating and colourful jaguar sculptures outside an art museum. It is fun just being in the Zocalo and watching people enjoying themselves. There is a lot to see and i must go to the museum of Anthropology and walk along the beautiful Paseo Montejo.

Celebration of Three Kings/Los Tres Reyes

This is a festival that was being celebrated in Campeche on the 5th January. In the morning it looked like it was going to be one big street party. Some of the streets around the square had been closed off. Behind the town Hall were dozens of market stalls. They were selling everything from kids' toys to Tshirts and of course, food and drink. Not far from my hotel they had blocked off the street and were setting up a disco - no sleep tonight then! In the evening the town was packed. People were enjoying themselves and music was in the air. The following day it appeared the town was still celebrating. When I arrived in Merida, I saw they were preparing for a party in the square. there was alarge stage in one corner and the band were practicing. But this was not a continuation of 3 Kings, it was a preparation to celebrate 468 years of the inauguration of Merida. Mexico certainly knows how to deliver a good party. the great thing about it is that people of all ages can come out and enjoy themselves.

EDZNA RUINS, CAMPECHE

I arranged with a local travel agency to visit Edzna, some 50 km from campeche. A taxi driver took 2 french women and myself. We were dropped off at the ruins where we could wander about and explore for 2 hours.Edzna was founded in about 600 B.C, was discovered in 1907 and excavations began in 1928. It's name is derived from Itzna or house of the itznaes, a family ruling from 800-1000 A.D.It's a small city and there weren't many vistors. A wide sandy path led through thick vegetation bringing you into the clearing where the city is. The 1st buildings i saw were a cluster of small buildings around the patio of the Ambassadors. One of the buildings had an archway through which you could walk (hunched over) bringing you into the great Acropolis. This was alarge central square with on one side (the west) a long, tiered building, Nohochna or the large house. I climbed this to admire the view. i am getting fitter and fitter on this trip as i cannot resist climbing up temples and pyramids! Sometimes it is a relief when you are not allowed to climb the building. I sat in the sun, basking in thre atmosphere, thinking I was so lucky to be here. It was so worthwhile coming to Campeche for this. I walked slowly around the square then entered the complex opposite Nohochna. I was suprised to see another series of buildings. facing me was an elegant, tall building, "Five storeys" or Cinco pisos. It has a height of about 31 m. To the left of it was The house of the Moon on which I sat to admire this area. To the left of "Five Storeys" is the temple of the Moon. leaving this square took me into the little Acropolis which is the oldest part. Over here you can find temple of the masks: Sunrise and Sunset. This was a peaceful, unrushed visit.
Later on I was talking to the proprietor of the hotel; he told me about Calakmul which is one of the largest cities and should really be seen.

VILLAHERMOSA, Tabasco, oil capital AND CAMPECHE,YUCATAN PENINSULA

I thouht I would have difficulty getting to palenque and finding accom there. Not so but leaving Palenque was another story - no bus until at least 4th. Instead got a bus to villahermosa which wouls give me more options. Joutmry was only 2 hours on a good road. The vegetation changed from dense forest around palenque to grassy with trees. There wee cattle grazing and egrets alongside them. There were areas of werland with herons. On the way there was a government stop: the movement of eggs, fuit and dairy into the yucatan is restricted. Also along the way we were stopped by armed polic which is not uncommon. There were also army posts along the way. You get used to seeing this and it is to stop dug trafficking. Coming into Villahermosa we crossed the Grijalava, a large, brown river, apparently navigable to the sea.Villahemosa appeared a large, modern city. The area around the bus stop is rundown. I took a raxi into the centre as i had no map o info other than a rough idea of finding hotels on Calle (street) Madero.
I looked at some expensive ones and just nearby found a bargain. I wont say the name because it was rather dilapidated (think Point Rd Durban/Hillbow JHB or wrong side of tracks, Middlesbrough). Anyway it was sufficient for one night and I did have my own bathroom (ignored cobwebs in the shower).
On Sunday I was on my way to Campeche. This should have been a 5 and a 1/2 hr trip but turned into 8 hrs! It was a county service and stopped at every village and bustops at crossroads on the middle of nowhere. All this without getting off the bus for a toilet stop or more drinks - I did worry about dehydration/DVT but I am OK. At least I had a seat, others were standing.I did enjoy seeing the countryside change: more grassland and trees with lots of cattle herds, wetlands and then coming into the Yucatan, it became flatter and more jungley.
I have found a quiet hotel near the centre of Canpeche. this is a modest walled city that had to defend itself aginst the pirates (ingleses sin duda). There are fortified areas, a gate to the sea and one to the land. I took a "trolley ride" around the ciy and admired the colourful houses with heavy wooden dots and iron grilles and if coutse, the many churches. The church of San Ramon has a black Christ (statue made from African ebony). (am stuggling to type to night as keyboard has invisible characters!). Tomorrow I want to visit Ednza, Mayan ruins about an hout fom here.
Calakmul is too far - about 350 kn away (best to stay ar Escarga).
Wed I leave for merida. I have boked my flite to Guatemala city- 18 Jan, from Cancun.

Day at Palenque Ruins

It was a 15 min bus ride from Palenque town to the ruins. We were soon in the countryside: a flat valley with thick vegetation, tall trees, tropical looking plants.As you entered the gates into the ruins, the jungle became more apparent. You walk through tall trees and suddenly you catch a glimpse of the ruins. you emerge into sunlight and they come into view. They are spectacular; I feel like indiana Jones on a mission to (re)discover the ruined cities of the Americas! There is a beauty and a splendour about the place.The ruins are made all the more striking by their setting in the jungle. Slowly I wandered about the place, drinking in the atmosphere, admiring the city. The temple of inscriptions is very striking and is significant. There are 9 tiers to the pyramid representing the 9 battles to be fought before lord Pakal can emerge from the underworld. Opposite this is the palace complex and you can walk about the ruined rooms. In the centre were wall carvings of war captives. Elsewhere one could see carvings of the maya representing episodes of their lives/history.

PALENQUE RUINS

Temple of inscriptions

Temple of foliated cross

Temple of inscriptions

Temple of sun

Temple of cross